Carnivale 2018, Viareggio

Something I love when traveling is finding festivals or special events that are traditions of the area I am in. I have been lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time on a few trips and have yet to be disappointed. Being that it is February places all over the U.S. are celebrating Mardi Gras. We learned that Italy is no different; here they celebrate Carnivale in several cities. After a little research and talking to a local friend we found out that Viareggio is known for one of the best Carnivale celebrations in Italy. 2018 is their 145th year of this crazy party.

The town of Viareggio sits on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea with beautiful views of mountains off in the distance. From the train station, you can easily walk to the beach and the main street lined with restaurants, shops and small cafes. This is also the promenade where the festival takes place. This town is less of a tourist destination and therefore you will find more locals and hear a lot more Italian being spoke. As we strolled through the neighborhoods and watched Chloe enjoy her first beach experience we were stopped by a few elderly women who just wanted to chat about their dogs. Doing our best to understand their Italian we soaked up the moment; I was even able to respond with more than just a smile and nod!

The time had come to go see what Carnivale 2018 had to offer! Tickets to the event cost €20 and it was worth every penny, I mean you travel to take in and experience culture and life so why not. Carnivale takes over the main promenade of Viareggio where the street fills with food vendors, beer, and the biggest Paper-Mache floats I have ever seen. When I say big I mean floats taller than the buildings. Italy uses the festival to inform the locals and tourists of some of the issues they as a country face. Two of the main floats depicted a skeleton smoking and a man in a wheelchair. The skeleton represents the health issue they face here as smoking is still done by majority of residents. While the wheelchair shows the difficulty that handicapped individuals face living in a country that was built hundreds of years ago at a time when handicap accessibility was not a consideration. For me I see how difficult it would be in a place such as Italy. Tearing down entrances to buildings and changing sidewalks that have been here since before the 16th century seems like you are destroying history. But I am glad to see Italy embracing these issues and working to alert the public and try to solve these problems.

There were several other floats in the parade all unique and interesting. Rather than try and describe them I will let the photos speak for themselves.

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The festival food like the rest of Italy’s meals did not disapoint. Sandwiches filled with fresh vegetables and meat sliced right in front of you, all reasonably priced left us wanting seconds and thirds. Of course, Chloe was given all the free meat and veggies she could want (okay she is a dog she always wants more) but she was more than satisfied. One of the other great things about the festival was that you could buy bottles of wine for €6! Just another demonstration of how different Italy and America are in these areas. America capitalizes on festivals and even in restaurants charging 10 times the amount for beer, food and wine making events and such unaffordable to many.  We left the festival spending €52 for tickets, dinner, drinks and a night we will not forget.

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All-in-all we were happy we chose to attend and experience the Carnivale festivities. If you have the opportunity to attend feel free to dress up in wild costumes and masks and join the circus of attendees and float participants dancing in the streets.

Uno Giorno in Lucca (One Day in Lucca)

One of the great things about Florence is that you can easily hop on a train and be in another city within minutes. What I love about the train is you can relax and enjoy the views of the Italian country side. Our first time hopping on the train was painless; we purchased our ticket from the counter (using my Italian) since we were traveling with our dog but there are several machines in the Stazione where you can buy your ticket as well as online. We chose to check out Lucca; a Tuscan town close to the coast of Versilia.

 

You could say we were chasing the sun at this point since it had been chilly and rainy in Firenze. Lucca was forecasted to be all blue skies. On the train, we enjoyed beautiful views of hillside towns set to a backdrop of snowcapped mountains. Lucca itself is a walled town known as the ‘city with 100 churches’. It also boasts several towers in almost every direction you turn. Once you exit the station you are only a 2-minute walk from the ancient town. Unlike many walled cities in Tuscany, Lucca’s has been well maintained. What was once intended for military use is now a gorgeous pedestrian promenade with trees, grass and wonderful pathways. With the sun shining the people were out in full swing pushing strollers, riding bikes and walking their dogs.

After our stroll on the promenade we sipped on vino and enjoyed our free aperitifs as we watched the locals with their children running and playing to the backdrop of the Church of San Michele. Life here is meant to be enjoyed, no need to rush.

As we passed shop after shop displaying signs saying SALDI 50%, I finally gave in and purchased a coat. I mean when in Rome right? Okay I was in Lucca but you get the point. In Italy January through March is when nearly every store has massive sales in preparation for the spring arrivals. It is not uncommon to see shops offering 70% off most items, so if you enjoy splurging this is the time for you.

If you are visiting Lucca you should be sure to climb the Guinigi Tower (Torre Guinigi). Dating back to the 1300s the Guinigi family later adorned the tower roof with holm oaks to symbolize rebirth as well as to give a refined look during a time when numerous bell-towers were going up inside the walled city. The views of the Lucca and mountains are breathtaking let alone seeing trees on top of a roof 125 feet in the air. Chloe was not too sure about all those steps and even less so when she realized we were what seemed like the top of the world.

One of the things I love about Italy and Europe in general are the doors. Every one you pass is beautiful and historic, made of jaw-dropping wood adorned with carvings and interesting knobs. I can’t help but take photo after photo after photo. Snapping photos with the doors of Europe has become a family tradition, so fair warning you will probably see lots of them. After a little more exploring we were back on the train heading home. Of course, we did stop in for a pint at an Irish pub once we got back to Firenze.

 

Transitioning into Italy

Driving in Italy

Arriving in Firenze by car can be quite daunting. Any slight hesitation results in honking and stares like you are directing traffic in your underwear as vespas whiz by on all sides. It is not for the faint at heart but it can be done. After dropping luggage at our new home, we were off to return the rental car. The confidence I gained driving into the city quickly diminished as Siri led us astray several times telling us to turn the wrong way down 1-way streets! What should have taken 10 minutes wound up taking 25 as we drove in circles like a dog chasing its tail.  None the less we made it without being honked at and with minimal arguing. A true feat in a foreign country.

Grocery store

After our 3 mile walk home we headed to the grocery (Penny Market) where we were immediately reminded of one of the MANY reasons we love this country. Walking into an Italian grocery is like a kid in a candy store; with mind-blowingly cheap, fresh food all available to us. Walls lined with fresh pasta for less than €2, bottles of vino for €1; how could one not love this place? Feeling like Homer Simpson staring at a burger, we wiped the drool from our face grabbed some wine and all the fixings for some of the best Caprese one could eat. *Hint try the buffalo mozzarella*

Jet-lag is a real b*tch

As a kid through my twenties I could travel anywhere and never feel jet-lag. I can remember my parents discussing it but never understood. Then 30 hit and the jet-lag we experienced the first 5 days can only be blamed by our old age. Wide awake all bright-eyed and bushy tailed at 2am does not make it easy to wake up before noon. The feeling is strange as your brain is saying GET UP!! but your body is saying HELL NO STAY IN BED!! After giving in to the fact that we couldn’t kick this feeling I purchased some melatonin and just like that we were asleep at 10pm and waking at 9am. Finally feeling normal we could start exploring the city in the morning hours. Moral of that story purchase some melatonin and take it day one; especially if you are on a short trip you don’t want to spend majority of your time in a foggy haze.                                                             *For more tips on beating jet-lag see our travel tips page*

These heels were not made for walking…in Italy

Generally, I have no issues walking in heels or wedges but the historic sidewalks and cobblestone streets can leave you with severe feet problems without the proper shoes. Last time I was here I walked around in wedges for a couple days and tweaked a nerve that didn’t heel for close to 5 months. Most days we walk on average about 6 miles wandering here to get pastries then over to the park to let Chloe run and play; it’s amazing how fast the miles add up. Another reason we love this city so much; daily life is active there is no way around it and why would you want it any other way?  How else can you eat pizza and pasta every day and still be able to move?